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Blue Death Feigning Beetles 101

A Disclaimer


While I have experience, I would not consider myself an expert in desert beetle keeping. This page is a combination of my own observations + info I've absorbed from my own reading over the years. As with all aspects of life: you should use as many different resources as you can to come to your own conclusions.

What is a blue death feigning beetle?


Asbolus verrucosus are small (about 1 inch) beetles native to southwestern USA. Their common name; Blue Death-Feigning Beetles, comes from their color and their instinct to play dead when disturbed. The light blue color is from a waxy coating they continuously produce to help retain moisture. They are a type of darkling beetle, and along their relatives are commonly just called desert beetles. BDFBs have become popular pets in the last several years, and there's a good chance you've seen them around on social media.

Why keep them as pets?


People are fans of these particular beetles largely due to their demeanor and ease of care. BDFB enclosures, compared even to other insects, are easy to set up and upkeep. They tend to be cheap (around $10/beetle) and can live for several years. All of this has made them especially popular as beginner pets.

BDFBs are curious and a bit timid, but aren't afraid of humans' presence - so they're fun to watch. They spend a good amount of time climbing, exploring, and interacting with tankmates (usually walking over each other, or attempting to copulate.) While they can sometimes run surprisingly fast, they lack the "skittery" quality that tends to get to a lot of people. They tend to walk slowly and intentionally, almost like frogs. Plus, they're too small to cause damage to humans. BDFBs cannot sting or spray.

Opinions on bugs as pets are obviously varied. There's nothing wrong with being disgusted by/scared of bugs. There is something wrong with insulting others and their interests.

Enclosures


Main Tank

Most people choose glass or acrylic fish tanks. BDFBs cannot climb glass, smooth plastics, or even silicone (like in the corners of a fish tank) so as long as there is nothing inside that they can climb to reach the edge, all is well.

In terms of size, the most commonly shared rule is 1 gallon per beetle, most people seem to max out around 25-30 gallons from what I see. I personally would opt for shallower, longer tanks. The lower edges discourage moisture build up and allow more walking space for your beetles to explore.

I'd recommend having a small (~1 gallon) quarantine/extra tank. It's handy for new beetles, suspected parasites, getting the colony out of the way while rearranging the main tank, trying out new substrates, etc.

Substrate

Tons of options - In short, go for chunkier sands and fine gravels; and be as dry as possible. Beetles like to dig and always appreciate a bit more grip. Very fine sands will build up in your beetles joints, especially if there is any moisture. I personally suggest you avoid dyed sands (black + unnatural colors like blue/green/purple) because it may dye your pets.

Children's play sand is really popular because of it's price; I'm currently using it and like it alright; though it is just at my personal limit of how small I'll go. I've noticed it sticking in their joints when the tank was more moist. Also, I personally do not care for it aesthetically. There's brain-like wiggles in it from the beetles walking around, and they don't particularly "pop" on it color-wise.

I've used and am a fan of crushed walnut shells (it's also another really popular choice). It's that perfect balance that the beetles can dig through it, but is not flattened/horribly displaced just from them walking around.

Many people like mixing coconut fiber in their tank, and I'm currently trying that. The beetles seem content with it but do be wary that coconut fiber holds moisture extremely well, and tends to be a touch damp coming out of the bag for the first time. Consider laying it out on a pan to dry for a day prior, especially the more you plan on using.


Alucard on play sand with some walnut shells on top.

Furniture

The aesthetics are for you and you alone. I've seen people use aquarium decor, dollhouse furniture, only native plants and rocks, "jungle" decor, DIY'd with popsicle sticks and toilet paper tubes; everything mixed together. So long as your beetles' needs are met, they don't care how it looks.

In short: somewhere to hide, somewhere to eat, and something to climb. A beetle will totally dig underneath stuff and shove itself in the crevice; and that's not a bad thing in general -- but if you notice it frequently consider making more places to hide. The more the better. Also, be wary of places a beetle could get stuck like narrow tubes, between something large and the tank wall, or in a plant with nothing to leverage itself.

Plants: people seem a little split on fake or real. With fake plants, they're usually smooth and your beetles can't climb/interact with them as much (this can be both a pro and a con.) Some people worry about their beetles potentially attempting to eat them, but personally I've never noticed that, plus I don't think that would be different from any other non-food item in the tank. Real plants usually have a bit more texture for climbing, generally look nicer, and could theoretically get nibbled on too. Be wary a commercially purchased plant may have been sprayed with pesticides, as well. Personally, I do not use real plants because I want to introduce as little moisture as possible. You may also find them cumbersome if you rearrange the tank.

Food Dish: It's up to you if you want to use a food dish or not, plenty of people just place food directly on the substrate and spot clean as needed. This does create a larger risk of your beetles accidentally eating their substrate. If you want a dish, look for the most shallow one you can find; preferably with a decent amount of texture, so your beetles can get in/out easily. Usually ramp-style plastic reptile food dishes fit the bill best. The actual size depends on the amount of beetles you have, but generally the "small" category is plenty. I usually end up washing mine every few days, but how fast it gets dirty depends on the food you put on it.


Adorable, but you just placed your beetle sims in a 2x2 ladderless pool

Upkeep

Since blue death feigning beetles are simple and very dry, their tanks don't get particularly messy. Periodically (every 10 days or so) scoop droppings from the top layer of the substrate, and look for/dispose of any food that was carried away from the food dish. Depending on the specifics (how crowded, how dry, is your tank bioactive) you can easily go several months without a total substrate change. While the beetles will dig, they don't intentionally bury food nor poop, so typically nothing gross will be beyond the surface layer. You can rinse tank decor with water (and dry very very thoroughly) if it gets particularly dusty. The only thing I actually wash is the food dish, and brand new decor before putting it in for the first time.

Beetle Care


Attitude

Generally, these little guys are extremely chill. BDFBs are crepuscular - meaning most active at dawn and dusk. The more you have, the more likely you are to see activity at all hours. They're considered social and you should try to have at least two. A lone beetle wouldn't die of a broken heart (like a rat,) but will be noticeably less active. Occasionally you will see them annoy each other (usually in the form of beetle A repeatedly walking over beetle B, then B running away). I've seen a couple people report that they will sometimes bite each other, and this is usually considered a sign they need more protein in their diet. As established, if a beetle is scared it'll play dead. They can and will not hurt humans. They can't squirt or sting like other darkling beetles. When they're stressed (have been handled a lot, annoyed by other beetles, after being shipped) they'll hide and stay still for a very long time. Just make sure they have food and let them be.

Food

This is a big reason people love keeping BDFBs. They eat just about anything. Fresh fruits and vegetables, dead insects, dog/cat kibble, insect jelly, even cooked egg and meat scraps (avoid fat and coldcuts/preserved meats though). Make sure produce is very well washed, preferably organic. Pesticides were not made with your beetles in mind, but will kill them just the same! BDFBs can handle a bit of neglect, but they're best off fed daily or every other day, mostly depending on if you're willing to let food sit out for 24 hours or not.

Over time, you'll find out what your beetles like and dislike. Try giving them a varied diet, and make sure their food dish stays clean. You'll notice I never mentioned water anywhere. They get all the water they need from their food! A water dish is just a drowning risk for them. Just make sure they routinely have food with moisture (like produce) it's plenty I promise!


Mine like chicken!

Life and Death

BDFBs live just under a decade on average. Almost all BDFBs in the pet trade are wild-caught, so there's no real way of knowing how old your beetle is or how long it will live. In my experience; when beetles get to their last few months of life, they produce less wax and are darker.

They are fine at room temperature, generally preferring it on the warmer side. They'll like and occasionally use a basking lamp but it's not a requirement. (Be sure there is space for them to get away from it as well.) Try to keep them away from vents, doors, and other drafty places. Take into consideration things like morning or afternoon sun warming up their tank, fans, or even speakers that could vibrate their tank.

As stated before, their characteristic powdery blue color is from a wax they secrete. This wax helps (along with their back bumps) conserve moisture and protect from the sun. The wax can be wiped away from handling them (even with clean/dry hands), moist substrate, or bumping into their food. It's not the end of the world if they lose some, it'll come back in a few days; they'll just have a dark spot in the mean time. Your beetles' overall color is a good indicator of how humid their environment is, as well.

They're hardy! They live good lives with missing limb pieces, they can flip themselves over, and can tank any falls within their enclosure. They'd be fine if you dropped them on the floor as well, but please try not to. They're small and can be crushed. Plus, sometimes, surprisingly fast. (luckily a large fall is most likely to scare them into feigning death.) A beetle succumbing to a parasite or poisoning (usually insecticide from produce) will be very twitchy and likely on its side/back with its legs curling. I've also heard a couple instances of them "foaming" a brownish liquid at the mouth. In this event, remove and quarantine the beetle, wash the food dish, and change the food. The poisoned beetle may recover, but it's unlikely. Some people suggest that giving the beetle direct access to water may help, but there doesn't seem to be much on it. Parasites can come from contaminated produce or other insects.

How to tell if they're actually dead: Beetles playing dead aren't that good at it. There's a solid chance their antennae or legs will be moving a bit, especially after a few minutes. It also may react if you gently poke it or blow on it. If you're concerned, put it in quarantine with a softer food that you can easily see bite marks on, and give it a day. When BDFBs actually die, the two biggest tells are their color (as they are no longer producing wax) and their limbs (they will go limp after a while.)

Reproduction

I can't help with this! They are notoriously difficult to breed. You will not accidentally end up with a million beetles. If you do, call someone to have your set up studied. Eggs do not guarantee larvae. You may see your beetles attempting to reproduce a lot, but usually not even eggs happen. Here is an (older but relevant) article on the Cincinnati Zoo's efforts to breed BDFBs.

My personal experience


Currently, I have a 15 gallon tank with just two beetles. Over the last 9 years I've had 7 desert beetles. First was Henri the smooth death-feigning beetle (a VERY similar but ultimately unique species). Then I got Dave and Alucard, blue death-feigning beetles. Then Shyguy, Doug, and Chowder; 3 more blues. Then Dutch the diabolical ironclad beetle. All of them have passed from age except for Alucard and Shyguy. Alucard is the gif at the top of the page!

I'm currently using a coconut fiber/soil mix as a thin layer on top of play sand. I've shared my thoughts on both of these above. I think next I want to try a red desert sand mix (the beetles will look fantastic on that color!) but I have a lot to use up first.

Something on my mind: (and was also touched on in the linked article above.) I'm not entirely sure how I feel about a pet that's entirely wild-caught, especially the more popular they get. I'm not totally against it; because of the efforts to breed them in captivity, but I'm just a little hesitant, if that makes sense. I don't want to have 1 beetle by itself so I can still see myself getting more soon. Wild-caught VS captive population is something I ask you to consider with any pet, honestly. I didn't until a few years after getting beetles for the first time. My friend with hermit crabs shares the same sentiment.

I've been bitten by a BDFB before (this is impressive/weird/impossible because their mouths are too small to grab human skin.) Here's how you can recreate it:

  1. Pick up a (medium to larger) beetle that was probably going to eat immediately after filling its food dish with meat.
  2. Let it walk around on the back of your hand, towards your last knuckles where your already thin hand skin is even thinner.
  3. You most likely got meat smells on your left middle finger knuckle while either putting food in the dish, or picking up the nearby beetle.
  4. The beetle will possibly smell meat on the back of your last knuckle and attempt to eat it
  5. Its mouth is, in fact, too small to bite a human though.
  6. So it'll grab just the very outer layer of your skin (if you've ever ~almost~ stabbed yourself with a sewing needle, or ~almost~ sliced yourself with an exacto knife; like that.) and pull straight up.
  7. It's not even strong enough to rip your outer layer of skin. It just pulls on it and it kind of hurts because your skin is not really supposed to do that.

So, you can technically be bitten by one but...this is not a concern honestly.

Other little tidbits that didn't fit elsewhere:



This page was made for the 32-Bit Cafe's 5th code jam!